Via Ferrata Steinplatte: Schuastagangl-Steig

…then one Friday afternoon…

Another weekend brings sun and warmth, at least during daytime. No wonder that Hector talks me into another trip towards the Alps, this time even abroad. We detect Camping Steinplatte, a likely campsite with premium lavatories and relaxed atmosphere.

Waking up on Camping Steinplatte

Caused by maximum spontaneity, I have left a couple of things behind. Such as the hiking map of the region, and also Fred, my expedition sleeping bag (rescue from the cold down to -42°C). Fortunately, the cold is a mild one this night and the two summer blankets are enough to keep it cozy and warm.

I love those Early Morning Perspectives, waking up with Hector

Saturday morning starts promising. Turning on Hector’s heating enables me to get used to the expected summer temperatures. Besides, it feels incredibly luxury. I am well aware that others might starve in the cold while I enjoy comfy breakfast with homemade coffee and a humming gas heating.

Today’s Destination: Steinplatte

The rest of the day is fun and joy and mountains: Hector takes the toll road under his tires, all up to Steinplatte-parking. Along the way, he proves once more that he is a veritable Rennsau (formula 1-like-moving-item). At 9:05 a.m., I start my walk towards Stallenalm, then Grünwaldalm and then finally to the beginning of the via ferrata Schuastagangl-Steig.

Guess today comes with an uphill route…

After the easy-peasy hikes and via ferrata trials of the past, today’s route is a good one. Interesting, even. And despite few others being either ahead of me or behind, I do neither hear nor see anyone during the entire steel rope section. I have the entire challenge all for myself.

Ready for the Challenge ahead

Given the solitude as well as my general, very rational mindset, I leave out the detour marked with “difficult, really difficult” and rather continue straight forward on the original route.

The regular part

Once having stepped into the via ferrata, it becomes as simple and pure as can be: just follow the steel ropes, mostly in a vertical direction. The view gets more and more spectacular while I forget entirely to think about work, to-do-lists or other duties. The klicks of the snap-hooks and the search for good grip in the rocky wall, that is all that counts here and now.

This is why I call it a Good Tour

Hardly an hour later, I come to a point where I try and try and re-try for what seems endless (about 5 minutes), sorting out how to get over a tricky passage. Pausing and thinking about the best approach makes me realize that I am really hungry by now. I hope that the peak is not far anymore, and lose focus with a couple of braincells that start dreaming of a well-prepared summit-snack…

Seven minutes later, I am there. All it takes is a bit of body tension: A step to the right, a slight swing to the left, then a pull from the arms and a push from the left toes and there I am, up on the Steinplatte.

All great up here

The scattered hikers around ask me why I radiate with exuberant happiness. Seems like my joy is visible, including the sun, the view, the tour and the challenge. Or, more probable, the sensation of finally getting my peak snack.

Kaisergebirge

Walking down is the relaxed part, even hilarious. Not because of the moaning children or oversized parents carried up by the cableway. Not even because of the asphalted ways and the obtrusive visibility of ski lifts and snow cannons. It is due to the “Triassic Park” and it’s papier mâché objects – and due to the fact that they pretend to talk to their audience.

Yes. Seriously.

Eventually, I make it down to the Stallenalm for a final cup of coffee before I head back home. The tour kept me busy and focused for less than three hours, yet the holiday feeling of the weekend will stay for a little while.

Beauty, after all
510m altit. diff.few km2:45 hvia ferrata: mostly harmless

Holiday Week, or: Frankfurt Ski Combination

Here it is, our traditional Kreuzalm week, spent high above Garmisch. Days are filled with umpteen runs down the Kandahar slope while the evenings come with good food, a bit of wine and tough scrabble games. So much for the plan of it.

Obviously, this year is different. Still, we manage to realize the main components with the utmost flexibility.

The View is almost, but not entirely, unlike the Alps

It starts with snow in Frankfurt. Excited, we witness the change in sound and landscape. The waste collection car sounds like a snowcat and the jogging course is as cold and deserted as the Hausberg-slope at 8:00 a.m.

Grüneburgpark replaces Garmisch

The silhouettes around are different, though. Instead of Kramer, Alpspitze and Waxenstein, we face the “Mainhattan” skyline.

Typically Frankfurt

Another tradition is the combination of Garmisch-days with other preferred ski areas. Consequently, I follow the cold and head South. I approach the Sudelfeld slopes just in time to enjoy fresh snow and a tour with one of my preferred ski buddies.

Skitour; Sudelfeld
Constantly Uphill

I may lag behind during the uphill part of the tour, but as an experienced sports pro I appreciate every minute of the exercise. I am well aware that the tough ones only endure long-lasting exertion.

Sun + Snow + Action = Smiling Faces

On the last 50m, the route gets narrow and one of us shortly stops for changing the ski setting. I take my chance, pass by in the most nonchalant way (“Ich bin schon da!”, sagte der Igel) and reach the highest point with a lead of ½ second.

Up on Vogelsang
Perfection is overrated

The downhill part starts with a shift in perspective (not so much of a real handstand today) and with the joy of seeking untouched white powder, at least a few inches of it.

Powder Leftovers

The last chapter of today’s experience contains a stubborn car, an uncharged key and the constant noise of the alarm system. But that is another story…

469m altit. difference5 km80 min. (ascent)harmless

Kolbensattel Skitour

Days get blurry and it is hard to tell what distinguished Monday from Tuesday. At least, I know how to create an outstanding Saturday and throw my touring skis into the car.

Softly Uphill

Apart from zoom meetings, online yoga and virtual ukulele sessions, it is fantastic to feel real snow flakes on my face. Who cares about sunny days as long as winterwonderland offers snow-covered forests and cold fingertips?!

Silly Walking Technique

The Kolbensattel offers a levelled ski slope to pros who are willing to pay 15,-€ parking fee. It is a good deal, given the minimized avalanche risk and the joy of winter action. Just like last weekend, I recognize smiling faces and good mood all around me – everybody here is happy to do outdoor sports, and it is done best far away from crowded hotspots.

Pure Winter Feeling

The tour is an easy one and leads up to the Kolbensattelhütte, now closed of course. I remove the skins from my skis, turn the binding a 180° and put on my helmet. Not that a light-blue slope with a handful of people requires full safety equipment, but it is comfortable and warm and looks utterly professional.

When Fixing the Goggles to the Helmet almost Fails

I am thrilled to try out my touring skis in the powder. This is exactly what they are made for! The same is true for me, by the way. Someday I will hop down in un-touched, fresh snow, but as of now, I take whatever the slopes offer.

Downhill Fun
420m altit. difference4,3 km1,5h (ascent)harmless

Hirschhörnlkopf

Winter hike season is here! Martina + Michael are the perfect match for today’s tour up to the Hirschhörnlkopf, a peak as charming as un-pronounceable for anyone from abroad (outside Bavaria).

Our last common Tour has been up to the Stromboli – Perfect Hiking Buddy Martina

The hazy weather enfolds an almost mystic atmosphere in the forest. Great to be out here, despite the cold! Lucky may be those that get heated up along the way…

Is it hot in here or is it us??

The view into the Alps might be worth a look, but not today. Instead, we listen to the sound of snow crunching under our feet.

The View. The Cloud. Mittendrin statt nur dabei.

We approach the cross just in time to witness the clouds clear up for about 30 seconds.

Hikingthealps; Hiking the Alps; Wanderlust #hirschhörnlkopf
Yay to Peaks

There is hardly enough time for pictures, Gipfelsemmel and a glance on distant peaks before the clouds settle in again and leave us cold-handed.

-1°C on Hirschhörnlkopf

Michael detects a romantic = deserted path down, leading us through frozen air and fresh snow. Along the way, we find out how to solve bad hair days: it only takes some white frost to present a splendid hairstyle.

Frosty

The descent via Kotalm (who invents those crazy names??) turns our hike into a circuit and invites us to a second pause with tea and sweets.

Break at the Kotalm

And: with the first handstand trial since… since March 2020! Despite the lack of training, I manage to hold the pose for a full second, proudly presenting my Grödel (crampons).

Hiking the Alps; Handstand; hikingthealps
Back to Handstands!

Further down, we cross several streams and icy paths. The picture below shows the latter – did I mention the useful crampons? Natural born chamois might do without, but I only started hiking in my late youth (13 years ago) and appreciate the perfect grip on snow and ice.

Icy Paths

After 4,5 hours we get back to the parking at Jachenau and congratulate ourselves to this wonderful winter tour. Next weekend might be best for a ski tour, yet today’s hike was as charming as a winter day can be.

750m altit. differenceca. 10km>4hharmless

Wildalpjoch Winter Hike

Winterwonderland is just around the corner! Other than last time (Sep.-Wendelstein-tour), the fresh snow comes with the right quantity. Meadows and rocks are covered with a fluffy layer of sparkling white powder, but with no risk of sinking in thigh-deep. Hence, it is the ideal setting for a relaxed winter hike.

Rising Hiking Stars

Sabine joins me with thorough preparation: gloves, sticks and serious mountain boots found the base of today’s hike. The fairy atmosphere in the lower part of the tour is only slightly disturbed by the low humming of the snow machines of Sudelfeld ski area (making me hum with anticipation).

Caught in Winterwonderland

It takes less than 500m to skip the idea of a defined road map and rather follow the most traceable way. Easy enough, knowing that the Wildalpjoch is one of the most attractive (and frequented) peaks close to the Wendelstein.

Proof in Footsteps: There is Life around us

During ascent and descent, the paths are slippery when wet. Or frozen. Or muddy. Or all three. But thanks to hiking sticks and dancing skills, we get along pretty well and make it to the peak with no severe difficulty.

Achieved!

Despite Sabines firm intension to avoid snow-related mountain action, the two of us enjoy the winterly scenery and the endless views above the clouds.

Looking South

After 4 hours (including peak snack), we get back down in almost the same state as started. Just happier.

Joyful Existence
700m altit. difference7 km3:45 hmostly harmless

Compensating Heights: The No-Travel-Substitute 2020

Hikingthealps
Hiking the Alps
The outstanding Triple-Peak-Tour of the Year: Transcending the Geierköpfe

Months of the strangest year did not stop my yearning for travels. Real travels, with different places to go und foreign people to meet. Yet, I am lucky to live in a region that attracts tourists for one or another reason, and I take advantage of it as much as possible.

Hiking the Alps Chiemgau
July: Heuberg, Karkopf, Karspitze

Of course, you could take this as travel inspiration: Any of the mountain tours shown here may tempt you to spend precious holiday time between Munich and the Alps. Me, instead, I have to deal with an insulted van (with only 3 nights out, Hector feels entirely left behind), but at least I can look back on 13 hikes from July to October.

July/August: Geigelstein, Schwarzenberg, Hirschberg

Having crossed off most of the tours of my hiking books, I will look for online inspiration and continue with outdoor action throughout the winter.

Hiking the Alps
August/September: Scheinbergspitze, Torkopf, Wendelstein

For today, I happily present a quick glance on tours No. 1-13, also known as my holiday-substitute 2020.

Lovehiking
October: Rabenkopf, Gedererwand, Kranzhorn

The list of all Hiking-the-Alps tours is presented here => Overview.

Brünnstein: Black Hike or light-blue Via Ferrata?

Experts recognize the Rock Formation: Brünnstein Peak

2020 modern times come with neither party nor concert, no random encounter nor further excitement – hence, best practice is to find attractive destinations during weekends. With the warm sun laughing  at November bias, today’s target is the Brünnstein.

Barbara joins and proudly presents her brand new via ferrata equipment: harness, loops, carbines and helmet. It will turn out that we are entirely over-equipped, but at least we look adventureous like hell.

#Hikingthealps; Hiking the Alps, #Brünnstein
Approaching Brünnsteinhaus

The route is a wonderful mixture of steep paths, relaxed forest roads and green meadows. And not all of it is muddy.

#hikingthelaps #wanderlust
Up to wider Horizons

Despite the early snow we had a couple of weeks ago, November starts with short-sleeve temperatures. Just like the fixed-rope sets, the downy jackets serve our fitness as we carry them up and down in our backpacks.

Fixed Steel Ropes, yet the Via Ferrata comes with no Difficulty at all

For whatever which reason it takes longer than expected to reach the Brünnsteinhaus. We pause for a moment and gain back some of the burnt calories when plundering our backpacks. The regular restaurant service is closed (Covid19 rules), but the sunny terrace offers tables and chairs and even beer or juice thanks to the installed beverage dispenser.

Intresting Route

Ahead of the lodge, the “Dr. Julius Mayr” via ferrata leads to the summit. It is a charming trail as it includes iron steps, climbing passages and cavity. All easy enough, but fun nonetheless.

Choice of the Day: Barbara, the Via Ferrata, the Alps

What I like best are the exposed paths that make you feel lightweight and offer wide horizons from a bird’s eye perspective.

Sensation along the Way: Being aware of the Nothingness right in front of the Feet

The Brünnstein peak is in reach for hikers free from giddiness, meaning: us. And about a dozen more…

Hikingthealps; #Bruennstein
Another Ridge of a Summit

I can hardly imagine how crowded this spot must be in high season. At least you will always find a good photographer for splendid summit portraits!

Bruennstein
Another Success for the most irresistible Peak Queens

Eventually, we start our descent with some steel ropes on the steep upper part of the trail. The more height we lose, the more we witness a change in scenery: Climbing rocks give way to lush pastures and forests. The setting is very rural as for the entire route the only prominent signs of civilization are some alpine shacks.

Rural Region

Along the way we detect quite some road signs that mark further tempting destinations. Looks like we might come back for more someday…

865m altit. difference<13 km5:15 hchallenging

Most Charming, Easy Tour: Kranzhorn

Kranzhorn double-cross-peak

Based on my general interest in science, I am curious what will happen when inviting a Flachlandtiroler (hiking rookie from low-level-areas) to a hiking tour in the Alps. At the edge of the Alps, to be more precise.

Splendid Pictures: always an Option. As soon as I find Someone who volunteers to clean my Windshield…

My favourite hiking book “Zeit zum Wandern – Chiemgau” offers a blue tour with a real summit and wide views towards the main Alps. Viola is all up for it and we buzz with anticipation, hardly able to wait until sunrise to jump in the car and get going.

Kitsch meets Natural Beauty

We start easy on forest roads, passing by several pastures, all beneath one of those skies that exist only in the short transition from summer to autumn. The surrounding is charming and we appreciate the clear air and the pure feeling of being here.

Best to be done around 8:00 a.m.

We forget about time and place, yet it must have been merely an hour until we reach the Kranzhorn-Alm. We are just in time to jump out of the way as the delivery truck arrives, carrying the alp’s staff to their working place and fresh victuals to the kitchen. Generously, we grant them some time to prepare their hospitality and continue towards the summit.

Hiking is such a step-by-step-thing

The last section of the tour is a bit more challenging, at least with wet and slippery grounds added by stormy wind, blowing us apart (or trying to). But then it is great, leaning against the squalls and dancing with the storm or the cross or both.

#hikingthealps; Hiking the Alps, Chiemgau
Double Cross at Kranzhorn

Coming back to the scientific test of foreign visitors and how they react on height and rocks, it is stunning to witness the development. From the Westerwald to the Alps, all you need is something to hold on to. Then, all of a sudden, joy and lightness set in.

First

but then!

Having the peak all for ourselves, we enjoy the view as long as we bare the storm. The morning mist still covers the valleys while the alpine glaciers shimmer in the distance. It certainly differs from hiking routines in Pfalz, Taunus or Westerwald.

Hiking the Allps
Outlook

Eventually, we call it coffee time and get served with wonderful delicacies at the Kranzhorn-Alm.

Coffee in Sight

By the time when dozens of families + umpteen hikers shuffle in, we are already on our feet, ready for the descent.

This has been the most charming of the blue tours I have done lately and it is best to start it way ahead of regular hiking crowds.

350m altit. difference8 km< 3 hoursharmless
Viola, now hiking pro!

Black (tour) and White (snow): Gedererwand

Zwölferturm, Hiking the Alps
Summary: Foggy Forests, Interesting Trails, Rocks and Cliffs

Mid October, muddy and slippery grounds, unmarked paths and climbing elements. Sounds like a good way to spend a Sunday morning!

Chiemgau
Not the Hardest Part

Around 9:00 a.m., I start fresh and relaxed at Hintergschwendt. The appearance of the area suits the sound of “Hintergschwendt“: rural, with jingling cows and autumn leaves.

The Setting

Only a minor part of the ascent is easy and stable, most of it is either muddy-slippery or steep-stony-slippery. With the route sometimes hard to find, and, once found, hard to remain upright, it is perfect to leave work and daily life behind. What I need for the next hours is concentration, tracking instincts and top-of-the-hill hiking boots (check, check and check).

Hiking the Clouds

The weather is indecisive today, meandering between clouds, fog and sun. The tour via North/East to Gedererwand is not frequented, but creates an almost mystic atmosphere. The rough surfaces of the rocks along the way, the dark green and light brown of the autumn forest, it all fits perfectly in the scenery.

This is the path.
Really.

The pictures show the rocks when standing right in front. Yes, it is about getting up there in the most vertical way.

When I approach the announced climbing passage (easy, category I-II), it is interesting, but not difficult. All along the ascent, there are quite some sections where the hands may support the feet – reassuring me that such a black tour is exactly what I like best. Even more with dry grounds beneath and bright skies above, yet best practice beats best conditions.

Today’s Conditions

After 2,5 hours I make it to the summit of Gedererwand and – having outperformed a mid-sized hikers’ group – find the cross all deserted, waiting for the peak queen of the day.

#gedererwand
Gedererwand Peak

I use the privacy for a change into a dry t-shirt and patiently wait for my photographers to arrive.

#hikingthealps #gedererwand Hiking the Alps #chiemgau
Tadaa! (“Ich bin schon da!”, sagte der Igel)

A pause of 25 minutes is enough for Gipfelsemmel-Vesper, chats among hikers and for the sun to make it through the clouds. Right in front, the Kampenwand unveils with it’s famous silhouette. I can tell by the umpteen people I will pass by during my descent that it must be overcrowded despite the snow and the cold.

Kampenwand
Chiemgau. Kampenwand. Winterwonderland.

The ascent has taken slightly more time than planned, mostly due to the rough terrain. Now, the further I get on my descent, the more I can accelerate. The ways are harmless and in less then 1,5 hours, I am back at my starting point and wonder about the almost infinite rows of parked cars. Lucky me that I have such a propensity for interesting tours, sorting out the sneaker-strollers and lowland tourists along my way.

above, ahead, anice perspective
650m altit. difference7,7 km4 hourschallenging

Relaxed Autumn Tour: Rabenkopf

Another Sunday enfolds with rays of sun and distant mountain silhouettes. Being blessed with quite some hike-able friends, all I have to do is place my cup of coffee in Sabine’s car and get moved towards Benediktbeuern.

Heading towards Rabenkopf

Destination of the day is the Rabenkopf, situated at the edge of the Bavarian Alps, 1.555m high. Forest roads ease the start into the tour, but not before long we follow others onto a shortcut, leading us on rough grounds and steep gradient. Consequently, it does not take long until we reach the Orterer Alm. The alp might offer refreshments throughout summer, while in October all it presents is rural atmosphere and some benches.

Hiking in good Company

We continue and join the Girgl-Fischer-Weg, all through idyllic forests. The ways may not be spectacular, but relaxed and nice enough.

Girgl-Fischer-Weg: steep or not steep, but always uphill

Within less than two hours, we reach the cross that marks the Pessenbacher Joch. Some other hikers are around, but by no means is it crowded or dense. Nature, meditational trails and more nature frame our passages.

Hiking the Alps; Wanderlust
Approaching Pessenbacher Joch

Summit crosses attract me like athletic men or good food: I can hardly pass them by without getting close. Even more, peak crosses motivate me to take at least half a dozen of pictures, sparkling with joy about the successful ascent, based on nothing but strong will and muscle power.

#hikingthealps
Pessenbacher Joch and: yay!

For the next 20 minutes, we go separate ways. I choose the trail to the right with more altitude-difference than distance. Furthermore, it comes with some almost-climbing-parts to intensify the mountain experience.

Looking down to Orterer Alm

Being all concentrated and focused on the trail’s pitfalls, I forget to take pictures of the via ferrata-like iron steps that mark the last meters below the peak… Still, it is great as the destination finally comes in sight and I hurry up to reach the Rabenkopf summit before further crowds appear.

#rabenkopf
Rabenkopf Summit Cross (+ decoration)

Free space is limited and quite some hikers gather around the cross. There is an alternative way coming up from Jachenau, and it seems to be more famous than our route. However, we sit comfortably distanced among others, join some chats and enjoy being here.

Our descent includes a coffee stop at the Staffel-Alm. Again, we find ourselves in the good company of all kinds of outdoor people who soak in the mild temperatures, sun and deserted meadows.

Nothingness in a good way

After six hours (including Gipfelsemmel and coffee break), we are back down and happy with the tour, adding 2 more crosses to my list. The extra cross of Pessenbacher Joch is the bonus that equals the missed (blocked) one from last week’s hike on Wendelstein.

900m altit. difference12-13 km5 hmostly harmless