2023, Jahr ohne Frühling. Aber es hilft alles nichts, wir müssen mal raus, vor allem Hector. Und so fahren wir an einem sonnig-regnerischem Samstag zum Stellplatz an der Seiseralm, Bernau/Chiemsee.
2023, year without spring. Still, waiting for summer is not an option, Hector yearns for camping and little escapes. Eventually, we drop in at Seiseralm (Bernau/Chiemsee) for a rainy Saturday evening.
Chiemsee
Es ist ein guter Ausgangspunkt für leichte und mittlere Wanderungen, zumindest theoretisch. Genauso theoretisch funktioniert meine Gasheizung zuverlässig. Praktisch mache ich kurzen Prozess: Einen Abend lang Blick auf den Chiemsee genießen (Restaurant), Blick auf die Alm (Bus) und am nächsten Morgen zurück nach München, bevor die Schlechtwetterfront es krachen lässt.
In theory, the place is ideal for a nice hike (Schwarzenberg, Kampenwand, Gedererwand…). Another theoretical feature is Hector’s gas heating. In fact, I focus on lake view and the thunderstorm crossing by, before heading back home early next morning. Being lazy is okay when blaming it on the weather.
Hector Perspective
Ich mag einfache Stellplätze: Aussicht ohne Chi-Chi, Hausmannskost im Restaurant, freundliche Menschen und glückliche Kühe. Dank Hochzeitsgesellschaft gegenüber und Frühstücks-Öffnung des Restaurants brauche ich mein eigenes Bad nur zum Zähneputzen. Und auch ohne die geplante Wanderung habe ich den Ausflug genossen: Der Blick auf den See, das durchziehende Gewitter und ein gutes Buch erweisen sich als erholsames Abendprogramm.
The more crowd gathers around regular campsites, the more I look for basic options. Consequently, the Seiseralm parking suits me . I relax with a good book and rural food in the restaurant, surrounded by nice waiters and happy cows. At home, there is always something to do. Here, I can focus on nothing but relaxation – just as planned.
But as for the hour, feels like I’m reaching for the peak of sours… They say, holidays will come and go, and when it hits you, you know it happened. Something inexplicable and undiscovered, something in the shades that I can take into the light… And something kind of silly I can find a meaning in and wake up to at night – some pretty sight.
[Inspired by Stray Colors / Whiskey Sour and with fantastic view on the Brecherspitz]
Hector und ich, das ist eine dieser ganz großen Liebesgeschichten. Über innere Werte, äußeren Glanz und die seltene Kombination von Freiheit und Geborgenheit.
Seit nunmehr 8 Jahren rollen wir grundsätzlich zu selten und zu wenig durch Europa, ständig gelobt einer von uns Besserung, immer wieder schaffen wir es und sind – beglückt. Glück, selbstgemacht, nur durch Einsteigen & Losfahren.
Wonderful Van, Offering Endless Moments of Happiness
Zuletzt in Südtirol, als ganz München in einer 11°-Dauerregen-Depression versank und wir auf der Südseite des Brenners die Sonne einfingen. Und nun am Sylvensteinsee, auf dem rudimentär einfachen und gerade deshalb so schönen Nachtparkplatz.
Holiday Spirit
Nur 75 Minuten von zu Hause sucht sich mein Lieblingsbus ein schattiges Plätzchen unter den Bäumen. Dass der Parkscheinautomat nur Bargeld nimmt – geschenkt. Dass sich eine von zwei Insassen im Restaurant irrt – ein Gewinn! Wer ahnt denn, dass es wenige Meter neben dem Gasthaus „Jäger vom Fall“ auch noch ein Gasthaus „Faller Hof“ gibt. Am Ende stellt sich heraus, dass wir bestens versorgt sind. Für Yoga am Seeufer bleibt zwar keine Zeit mehr, aber den kitschigsten aller Sonnenuntergänge zelebrieren wir ausgiebig.
… !
Der Sylvenstein-Stellplatz ist perfekt für einen spontanen Urlaubsabend. Einsam gelegen, umgeben vom Fjord-artigen Stausee und dunklen Wäldern – jenseits der Natur gibt es hier nicht viel. Eine eher mittelmäßige Toilette und zwei (2!) Gasthäuser. Keine Gartenzwerge, keine Dauercamper, keine Hecken-Parzellen – stattdessen einen prächtigen Sternenhimmel, dort, wo sich die Bäume lichten.
Waiting for the Stars
Nach dem Essen ergeben sich die Handgriffe von allein: Einer packt die Weinflasche ein, die andere zwei Becher, und fünf Minuten später sitzen wir am Seeufer mit Blick nach Westen. Das Licht, die Landschaft, der Mond, ein lautlos vorbeiziehendes Ruderboot – es braucht keine angehäuften, weltlichen Güter, um das zu genießen. Nur einen Campingbus.
Isar Luna
Am nächsten Morgen wird es um 6 Uhr langsam hell. Schnell Zähne putzen, Espresso kochen, und los geht es zur anderen Seite der Landzunge. Sonnenaufgang, Nebelschwaden und ein Wald, wie ihn Bob Ross nicht schöner hätte malen können, begleiten uns durch unseren Kaffee.
Oh so Vanlife to start a Day like this
Am Ende sind wir um 8:30h zurück im Alltag. Mit einer guten Portion Glückserlebnis in den Knochen und einem immer einsatzbereiten Bus vor der Tür.
Sylvenstein Stausee
Hector and me, it is one of those rare love stories. When shimmering silver lack meets inner qualities, with the power to combine my home-sweet-home with the air of freedom.
Common sense is that the relation travel vs. work is not yet optimized. Yet, whenever Hector hits the road, anything but a wide smile on my face is just impossible.
Golden Morning Light
Recently, the South side of the Alps has been the perfect micro-holiday for a weekend. Now, it is about a holiday evening with nothing more – or less – than a wonderful sundown in stunning nature.
when trying to be as flexible as my van
A mere 75 minutes from home, Hector settles in for the night on my favourite camper parking Sylvenstein. Pushing positive karma, I help out a foreign guy with the coins he needs for the overnight-parking ticket. This being set, we sneak in the restaurant around the corner right in time before they close the kitchen. It is only during our delicious dinner when we realize that we are not seated at “Jäger vom Fall”, but rather at “Faller Hof”. Who would have guessed that a five-souls-village may count more than one restaurant…
…behind the scene…
Thanks to early dinner, our timing is perfect for today’s sunset. Beside the lack of fancy gadgets, one of the best aspects of this camper parking is the location: Alps, the dammed Isar-river and the Sylvenstein lake, all surrounded by dark forests in a Bob Ross-painted style. Sounds kitschy – and proved just right.
when kitsch meets beauty
Useless to look for reasonable activities around here. Best you can do is find yourself a tree trunk at the shore, perhaps accompanied with a glass of wine and a camera. Wait and see and enjoy: The light. The landscape. The moon. The stars. No need for expensive toys or posh outfits – a camper at your side is all it takes.
Morning Mist
The next morning repeats the show, now with focus to the East. Wafts of mist add a mystic touch to the scenery while the rest is very much same, same, but different. When we reach the bottom of our coffee cups, it is time to turn our backs to the wonderful micro holiday and get back to work.
Hector is through with it: parked eternally, enduring rain and cold and never-ever used for spontaneous trips. For the 4th time in a row, 11°C and liters of rain cross my camping plans.
Solution: Change the destination!
Better here: Klausen, Camping Gamp
2h 45 are all it takes. Before the night settles in, we unpack the mountain bikes, get out the chairs and the table and enjoy outdoor dinner with a bit of wine and much of a view.
Other than Munich, the next morning in Klausen starts with blue skies, warm sun and a blocked bathroom door. The detail with the door is a bit disturbing. Not that I need Hector’s tiny bathroom when situated on a comfy campsite, but almost everything is stored in there: toothbrush, MTB equipment, sunscreen.
While others may face anything as boring as simple breakfast, we have a challenge ahead: analyze the function of Hector’s lockers, try to dismantle the blocking padlock, try and try and try to open this stubborn door. A half cup of coffee later, a final, frustrated slam at the door does the trick and it clicks open. The entire crew is happy to see me head off for the lavatory, toothbrush at hand.
…Then Later the Same Morning…
Plan of the day is a MTB tour from Klausen to Brixen. While the landscape is pretty and the weather just fine, I realize that today’s company is sort of a tour guide for the vertical.
MTB Tourof a Kind
We come from steep via very steep to incredibly steep gradient. Sweating and swearing, I push my bike uphill. I learn the hard way that a 19% slope is beyond cycling… My smile may have become a bit forced along the way, but at least I look sporty as hell.
…Up! He said…
In Feldthurns (Velturno), we use the inviting Gartencafé Tonig Bar for a break. Afterwards, the upcoming 20km of the tour are a piece of cake: passing by the castle, then down on serpentine roads, and finally following the river until we reach Klausen.
Focusing on New Challenges
The rest of the day is sunny, relaxed and full of wonderful food. Life can be sweet on a holiday weekend!
Relaxed Way Down
After a gourmet evening at Walther von der Vogelweide, we are up for another day at Klausen. Hector agrees to wait on the bus parking while the rest of us walks up to the Sabiona Monastery and the Chapel of Mercy (Lady Chapel).
Once more, the paths are steep and uneven. Still, it is so much easier without pushing the bike! Eventually, we arrive at the convent and enter the Church of the Holy Cross.
Huge wall paintings and the general atmosphere of the church are a surprise and a contrast to the fortress character of the area.
Church of the Holy Cross
By Sunday afternoon, we have checked all of Klausen’s highlights: the bike & the hike part, several restaurants, a bit of wine here and a bit of ice-cream there, the camping and the monastery. Hence, we tether up the sun to Hector’s hitch and go back to German weather.
Hector is happy again, and when Hector is happy, I am happy.
Together, we combine a working day at Augsburg, a camping stop-over at Lechbruck and a challenging tour around the Kenzenhütte. At least, that is the plan on Thursday. Even though I work for some hours when sitting on Hector’s couch, the overall situation feels like a micro-holiday.
Opening Hector’s Door: Stunning
Based on Hector’s feel-good qualities, I sleep like a baby and wake up around 5 a.m. on a beautiful Friday morning. Under an incredible sunrise-sky and over a cup of coffee, I check the weather apps, the tour description and the various variables of today’s schedule. Then I start to think: Isn’t it all about a good work-hike-balance?
Question of the day is, if I will I find the right paths without mistakes or doubts (meaning: loss of time). Will I successfully transcend two summits before the predicted, dramatic weather front strikes? Will I catch the rare hiking busses in time – and what about alternatives to the foreseen setting?
Today’s Choice of a Trail
The alternative turns out to be preferable, and an hour later, Hector rolls towards Linderhof, one of Ludwig II’s famous castles. Just a few kilometres next to it is a neat little trail up to the Scheinbergspitze. The altitude difference is fine (900Hm), the expected length (4 – 4,5 hours) smoothly fits into the weather development and the region (Ammergauer Alpen) is just fine.
…then on the way towards the peak…
The perfect preparation for another tour and another weekend is: failure. Near-miss, to be more precise. Two hours after the start of the ascent, I stagger towards the cross. Exhausted, out of breath and sweating like hell, it is embarrassing for a trail flagged blue = easy. Besides daily fitness, an exaggerated start and the aim to accelerate my uphill velocity almost disabled me reaching the top. I am stunned how hard this tour feels, and I lack the trekking poles that are stored in Hector’s bathroom (“A blue tour with less than 1.000 Hm? I will surely not need them!”). Yet, the harder achieved, the more rewarding is a challenge fulfilled.
Finally!
I spend quite some time on the Scheinbergspitze, soaking in the 360° view. Eventually I hop down, clenching my teeth when slipping and sliding on the steep gravel paths. At late noon-time, when Hector turns North towards home, I remark the darkened skies in the rear mirrors, confirming today’s choice. Given my disrupted speed performance and the witnessed weather change, the work-hike-balance is proved to be a clear match by the end of August. Even more as it might have built an almost ideal base for more challenging goals – but that is another story for another day…
Good Karma is back! After some back and forth, misleading advice from the Staffelsee campsite and running against torrents of tourists, Hector jumps in the very last free spot between lake and Alps. Camping Riegsee turns out to be the most charming one: ripened sanitary rooms with the right focus (clean and proper rather than chic), friendly staff and relaxed guests. Any camper crossing by is smiling a hello to Hector and me while I sit around and inhale the view towards the mountains, Zugspitze included.
I invest 18,-€ and get lake view + electricity in return, added by a well-tempered lake and a 6 km bike tour when going to meet friends for barbecue. On my way, I spend further 2,60 € on delicious calories hidden in some ice cream at Murnau (both, the ice cream and the town are a clear recommendation to tourists and inhabitants!). As the evening drops in, I am back to normal, finally fixing my disrupted world view.
Talking about World View…
There is nothing better than combining holidays and friends, and as the evening settles, the barbecue conversation drifts towards the craziness of 2020 and all the Covid-19 impacts. Coming along with different points of view, I slightly change my perspective. Just a bit of a nudge towards an unknown angle is all it takes to get me back on track of positivism. Leaving political edicts behind that may either erect or break borders and limitations, I rather focus on freedom as a mindset and all the possibilities that start in our heads long before they result in exterior action. The elements of the shifted prospect are about skaling fundamental values, harmonizing well with the last sips we get out of the wine bottle – however, a more detailed excursus would only distract from campsite pictures, so let’s get back to being here and now on a holiday mission.
Sundown over Riegsee
With all the favourable spirit, I am rewarded with a splendid sundown when cycling back to Hector. The night is a short one, as I go to bed only after the fading light has turned into black night entirely. And, of course, I get up early enough to catch the last pink rays of sunlight around 5:30 am, spotting fresh glistening snow on the distant peak of the Zugspitze.
Then the next morning…
There is time for tea, breakfast, coffee and a swim in the lake before my micro holiday comes to its end. The tourist torrents take over for the next two months, leaving no place for spontaneous trips – or so it seems… Guess Hector and me have found our summer challenge, checking out alternative spots in the upcoming weeks.
On my way out of the water and onto new destinations, ideas and action! And who knows: perhaps I even learn to do better selfies…
Even when your inner self is balanced as hell, you might appreciate an external impulse to get things going.
Creeping slowly out of my frustration hole about the disabled Grand Trip 2020, I suddenly hold a travel book in my hands: “Let’s Camp”, published by “fort & glücklich” – already the cover causes a little smile on my face. Flipping through the book, my travel lust gets more and more activated. First consequence is the decision to either work (find a job, earn money for serious travels in 2021 or later) or to use June for spontaneous trips across Germany. While in fact I hope for the money, a hidden part of me might like the latter.
The second consequence is that, almost unconsciously, I start packing up Hector. Bed and blankets, towels and fresh water, coffee, tea and wine. These days (mid May), you hardly find any reliable information about Bavarian camping possibilities. The only thing sure: campsites are closed. But what about official overnight-parkings and other alternatives?
I decide to try it out. Hector, of course, is eager to get out and play. On Wednesday (my favourite holiday-weekday), we head off and an hour later find our spot for the night: The camper parking at Sylvenstein Stausee is open for campers! A nice mixture of vans, RVs, cars with roof-tents and any other possible overnight shelter is dispersed under high trees. The lake shore is a 4-minutes-walk away from Hector’s spot and the sun keeps smiling from an almost cloudless sky.
Isn’t it so Worth it?!
I keep it low and lazy, enjoying the view across the lake towards the Alps while reading a book and munching peanut flips. This typical holiday feeling motivates me to unpack my folded bike and look for even more touristic pictures around the dam wall.
Lucky me that I can finally test my new bike storage. I will need to coat the inner carton walls with some smooth material, aiming to ease the packing + unpacking of my bike. All the rest is just perfect: the compartment within the van, the bike itself and the adoring comments from other campers. Funny that most travellers make such an effort with bike carriers behind their vans when it is so easy to change perspective, chose another kind of bike and just fold it wherever your car offers some cubic centimetres of space.
My Bike. My Lake. My Alps, my Nature. I might share some of it, though.
The evening develops quite pleasant as I sit together with a young couple from Osnabrück and two other single campers. We share wine and beer, chats and experiences. Oh, I really missed the normal life with random encounters and travel stories!
See how Hector upgrades the entire Sylvenstein Camper Parking, just by bringing in his Smile?!
Good news: Friends M. + C. and their blue Ford Nugget are down in Bavaria for a camping weekend.
Bad news: Hector is too chubby for the places located directly at the shoreline of Camping Lido. Consequently, my van with a view is limited to the backside of the sanitary house and camping neighbours around.
Camping Lido / Schliersee (Hector included)
Well, who needs a luxury home when you can spend time at your friends’ place? MC Nugget has a private grassy beach of approximately one square meter and a bottle of sparkling wine in the fridge. With the sun hanging high above the foothills of the Alps and ourselves being pretty good camper nixies, we are at ease with camping, life and everything.
After a summer-in-the-lake afternoon we get a bit disappointed by Sunday’s rain. However, with little correction in today’s agenda we use the wet summer day for the Markus Wasmeier Freilichtmuseum. Even though our slim knowledge of historical farm houses could be fed with some further explanations, we enjoy lingering around. At least we do learn some important facts: They really know how to make good “Auszogne” (building No. 23 / Behamhof) and my new hiking shoes are 100% water resistant.
Lovely old buildings at Markus Wasmeier Freilichtmuseum
Later that day we get surprised by the camp site’s restaurant. Whatever they call it here (mostly “Gastro”), we call it pretty good food! This has nothing to do with the leak snacks they serve at other campings and is even better than the typical Bavarian plates we had at the “Terofal” restaurant just the other day.
View from the camp site into Bavaria
Having spent two nights at Camping Lido for 43,- EUR, Hector has become familiar with the landscape, the farming and the local highlights. It is only after a final cuddle with local cows that he is willing to leave the Schliersee behind.
Making friends
P.S.: Die Preise am Camping Lido sind nicht das erwartete Schnäppchen, aber der Platz ist nett geführt und bietet (mit Bulli, Glück oder Nebensaison) tolle Stellplätze direkt am See. Fakten: Ortszentrum in Laufweite, Sanitär ok und die Landschaft über jeden Zweifel erhaben.
P.P.S.: Die Frankfurter Allgemeine Sonntagszeitung veröffentlichte Ende Mai 2017 ein Special über Camping und erwähnte dabei u.a. den Caravanpark Sexten: „Dort kann man […] sich im Spa eine Silberquarzit-Urinsteinmassage verpassen lassen.“ Aaaarggh…! Nochmal gelesen: es ist von einer Silberquarzit-Ursteinmassage die Rede. Uff. Soviel Wellness bietet der Schliersee-Campingplatz nicht, aber das war auch nicht der Anspruch.
Das letzte Sommerwochenende fällt dieses Jahr auf den 1. Oktober. Da der Große Ahornboden Campern die kalte Schulter zeigt, fährt Hector in die entgegengesetzte Richtung. Dass ein Bus so dermaßen empfindlich sein kann…!
Berchtesgadener Land
Bereits die Anfahrt über Schneitzelreuth gibt sich dramatisch: Straßen und Wildbäche winden sich durch düstere Berghänge und enge Schluchten. Ob ich hier mitten im Herbst noch genug Sonne abkriege? Ich bin nicht allzu erpicht darauf, mir meine Freizeitaussichten von parzellierten Hecken und schroffem Fels verschatten zu lassen.
Am Hintersee
Kurze Zeit später wird alles gut. Der Campingplatz Simonhof in Ramsau / Berchtesgadener Land ist ganz nach meinem Geschmack. Die vorderen Plätze sind akkurat in Reih und Glied, doch weiter hinten öffnet sich das Areal und mündet in eine offene Wiese. Keine Hecken, keine Platz-Parzellen und keine Dauercamper trüben hier das Bild. Zelte und kleinere Camper stehen kreuz und quer im saftigen Gras und teilen sich den zentralen Stromanschluss.
Am Camping Simonhof
Jetzt noch das Mountainbike ausladen (15 sek.) und frühstücken (30 min.) und schon kann es losgehen. Ramsau und der Hintersee liegen 300 Höhenmeter unterhalb des Campingplatzes, was für den Hinweg kein Problem ist.
Hintersee, Zauberwald und Watzmann
Fast schon penetrant ist das Bayerische Bergidyll. Schnörkelige Holzhäuser, malerische Landschaft und dann auch das noch: bimmelnde Kühe und Tracht-tragende Hirten kreuzen meinen Weg. Zum Glück durchbricht das Eis-Schlecken der Burschen die Kitschkulisse, es wäre sonst kaum auszuhalten.
Irgendwo müssen die Klischees ja herkommen
Zwischen Watzmann, Hochkalter und Reiteralpe ist die Postkarte kaum zu überbieten. Der Hintersee liegt flach in der Herbstsonne, gesäumt von Ausflugslokalen einerseits und dem Zauberwald andererseits.
Blick auf den Hochkalter
Unterhalb des Sees verteilen sich rechts und links des Bachlaufs die Häuser von Ramsau. Der Blick vom Malerwinkel über die Kirche hinweg zur Reiteralpe ist berühmt und wurde von etlichen Malern des 19. Jahrhunderts auf Leinwand gebannt. Mir selbst reicht ein schnödes Foto. Geht auch schneller.
St. Sebastian in Ramsau
Zurück zum Hintersee fahre ich durch den Zauberwald, der sich wie zu Hause anfühlt. Die Gegend hier strotzt nur so vor Höhenmetern und es dauert nicht lange, bis ich ein kleines Stückchen schiebe statt fahre. Hat zum Glück keiner gesehen, Anfang Oktober sind die Touristenmassen überschaubar. Für die hiesigen Berge empfehlen sich eher Wanderschuhe als ein Mountainbike, dann muss man auch nicht schieben.
Kalvarienberg
Der Rest des Tages ist der Erkundung des Ortes, der näheren Umgebung und der Kulinarik gewidmet. Spätestens am Abend ist das Fahrrad das Transportmittel der Wahl um den Radius der erreichbaren Gasthäuser deutlich zu erweitern. Bevor ich mich aufschwinge zum Wachterl an der Schwarzbachwacht (beste Leberknödelsuppe in Südeuropa) zeigt sich der Watzmann in der Abendsonne von seiner besten Seite.
Links im Bild: Der Watzmann
Der Campingplatz hat neben seinen futschneuen schicken Sanitärräumen einen Aufenthaltsraum, den die meisten Camper für ein teures Restaurant halten und folglich nicht betreten. Für mich ist es heute eine bequeme Alternative zum Bus-Sofa. Ich lese noch ein Stündchen und breche gerade auf, als eine 5-köpfige Zelt-Gruppe über die gut ausgestattete Kochnische herfällt.
Fazit: 90 Minuten Entfernung, 18,80 EUR Campinggebühr und 24 Stunden Spätsommerwetter reichen Hector für einen Mini-Urlaub. Vielleicht geht es beim nächsten Mal ein Tal weiter bis zum Königssee – allerdings ist es unwahrscheinlich, dass dort in prominenter Lage ähnlich entspannte Wohlfühl-Campingplätze liegen wie der Simonhof.
Travelhector 