• I will miss uncounted sunrises, once when holiday-mood will take over. But as for now, I am still haunted by work topics (“dream job”, I would say) and wake up early enough to see multi-coloured skies enfold just in front of my doorstep.

    Sainte-Martine

    Motivated to use this day as much as I can, I hop on my folded bike and make it to Sainte-Martine. It is not even mentioned in my travel guide, but offers a handful of picturesque houses and two cafés around the sleepy port. From a more practical point of view, it is ideal as it offers a tiny ferry that takes pedestrians and bikers over the fjord-like water to Benodet (and from there, further on). Sitting on a table close to the ferry quay, I enjoy a coffee while waiting for the boat.

    Encore là / waiting…

    About 45 minutes later, I understand that the ferry is out of service without further notice or reason. Great opportunity for lunch and, thanks to fantastic fish on my plate, no regrets.

    Concarneau

    Yet, I still have an urge for efficiency in my sightseeing plans. Consequently, I take Hector for an excursion to Concarneau. The town is famous for the “Ville Close” and for Monsieur le commissaire Dupin.

    In the end, Commissaire Dupin is a fictive character and nowhere to be seen. The Ville Close with its fortress walls is corrupted by a strong overtourism. I call it the “Mont-Saint-Michel” effect: medieval houses lose all of their charm when being changed into obtrusive souvenir shops. In the end, it is nice to cross it off my list.

    Île-Tudy, port

    Next attempt of a bike tour is to the other side: From Île-Tudy downtown (another micro-port) a shuttle ferry is supposed to bring men and bikes to Loctudy. However, due to Covid / illness among the mechanics and lack of required parts or tools, this is out of service. Meanwhile, I totally get it: the Universe tells me to calm down and relax.

    Lazy hours at the beach and first dives into the ice-cold sea take over and I begin to oversleep sunrise-hours. Biggest sensation is the detection of one of the “eyes” = mosaïc œuvres all over the coast of the Finistère. Even better is the exposition of sand pictures in the building next door. Fascinating photographs that make me see the sand at my feet in a different light.

    Found it: The Eye

    Another highlight is dinner at l’Estran, the very best restaurant of my first week – even beating lunch of Ste. Martine! The rest of my stay on Île-Tudy is beach, sand all over Hector’s couch and the fresh sea right at my feet.

    Discover the silver sands of Île-Tudy

    The only thing missing is waves. And ferries increasing my bike-range. Hence, after wonderful beach days, it is time to move on. But before that, Hector leaves his signature on the beach, just to make a clear statement.

  • Hector (Van-Perspective): Men are stupid enough to plant trees between the camper parking and the castle – incredible species! So close and still out of sight – must be real life, then. At least, the overnight fee (11,-€) is lower than the entrance to the castle (14,-€). Perhaps some of the costumed persons on their horses come around later, after the show. I might tell them that I have 130 times more horsepower than any of them 😊.

    B (Driver’s Perspective): So now Hector is huffy just because of a handful of trees, blocking the view on the huge, really huge castle Chambord. I will buy a postcard later. Coming along with a wonderful red wine, it should all be at ease this evening. But for now, I have places to go.

    I have seen Chambord  35  25 years ago during school exchange program. It impressed me by far more than any other chateau along the Loire, to the extent that any other castle I have ever seen is just trying to become as fantastic as this. Neuschwanstein included (small, undone).

    The umpteen little towers and details refer to various styles from any decade between 1519 and 1920. Strict geometrics in the general setting meet superfluous mini-towers on top. Enormous space on each floor enabled royal flat-sharing to Polish, French and other kings in the 16th century, with a Molière theatre included.

    These days, art expositions fill the higher floors, while historic furniture demonstrates life in long-gone eras below. I am more than happy, wandering through aisles and rooms, still stunned.

    H: After all, the place is not too bad. About 20 other motorhomes stay for the night, most of them much younger and certainly bigger. But none as cool as me! Just like the Tardis: unobtrusive outside, cosy inside. With a living room, kitchen, bathroom and bedroom on only 5,60m – and the cockpit even comes on top!

    The next morning comes with grey skies and with a wonderful view: as soon as we hit the first “rond-point”, the visual axis is all there. THE castle. Chambord.

  • And then it is there: Departure-Day, finally! As soon as Hector and me hit the road, freedom enfolds. Braincells meander in all possible directions, letting loose of stressful months. Becoming conscious, once more, of the real things in life. How little we are defined by work and how much by general values.

    …on the way to the center of nowhere…

    Driving becomes meditation and thoughts get clear. What is it, that makes life become full of joyful colours? Loving without recertification. Being loved among friends and family. Being free to choose how to live, how to work, and how we treat our body and our planet. Strangest sensation: the insight comes all by itself, without alcohol or expensive seminars – guess travelling still works well for me!

    … almost there …

    Meanwhile, my TomTom navi plays bingo, ignoring highways or dual carriageways of the well-marked kind. Or, more true, Hector decided that he likes France so much that he aims to see as much as possible. Landscape, especially.

    still, each road can be even more narrow than the previous one…

    After all, this is not our first trip and with only 40km of detour (blocked roads included), we arrive at “deep in the heart of nowhere” by mid-afternoon. The campsite must have been state-of-the-art in the 1980ies, but still it has a certain charm and a heated indoor pool. There is nothing better than a pool to relax back and shoulders after eight hours of driving!

    Tired, but happy – that is the outcome of day 1. Once the journey starts, there is no questioning anymore. Just me, my van and the joy of travelling.

  • The Plan: Recalibrate along the way.

    Milestones: Sleep longer (at least until sunrise), forget business, focus on beauty and add relaxed action along the way. More music, less thinking. Ommh…

  • Hector during our first Trip, back in 2014

    Hector (Van-Perspective): “People are strange… All this back and forth, the months of nothingness and then immediate action – hope they know what they are doing. At least the wellness treatment with a new toothed belt, bright eyes and a new rear battery is well-planned. Guess it will make me look 10 years younger! Good starting point for the next 5.000 km, be it with 1 or 2 or 5 girls.”

    Hector, recently

    B., Driver’s Perspective: When it is all about spontaneous travelling, why does nobody mention the squeeze of flexibility vs. fully booked campsites? Refusing silly ideas like “hidden places in the middle of nowhere” or “back-country-camping only”, I am confronted with wonderful internet pictures and the “Sorry, we are full!”-lady on the phone.

    H: “While drivers and passengers get more and more excited about the upcoming trip, I keep calm and wait for all the piles of stuff to be packed. Hope we will make it to some waves this summer… I wonder if I will get the surfboard I dream of ever since, it would suit me so well!”

    How Life should look like

    B: After some rollercoaster of planning, letting lose and a couple of calls, the spontaneity includes 1 ferry, 2 campsite reservations and the flight dates of at least two travel mates. For all the rest, we will see what the next weeks might bring.

    Meanwhile, juggling with Hector’s garage appointments, UK plans and over-sophisticated excel-lists culminates into waking up at 4:15 a.m and a constant buzzing hum. It makes me re-consider my preparation, and not before long, I figure out that some yoga classes, meditation or and a bottle of wine are by far more appropriate than endless to do lists.

  • Weeks before departure, Hector carries a big smile on his face. Spreading good vibes, he tells stories about how he will enjoy champagne with the girls soon.

    Since prices for gasoline reached unknown heights, my van is convinced of getting champagne all the time – nothing else makes sense with the pricing, right? With the utmost positivism, Hector bares hailstorms while dreaming of sandy bays at the sea, castles along the way and rebellious moves when driving on the wrong side of the streets.

    Spontaneous Reactions to “Champagne with Hector”

    Meanwhile, Linda plays with options for joining us in Brittany. Andy and local friends align for London, and Melly has booked flights in and out of Great Britain. Furthermore, the house-sitter gets accustomed to our place and Barbara plans to hop on towards the end of the trip. Altogether, packing will be more Tetris than ever.

  • Part 1: Mindset

    En Bretagne, il ne pleut que sur les cons.

    In Brittany, it only rains on idiots.

    Nothing to fear for Hector and me, then.
  • Thursday comes and is accompanied by a hurricane. We think of the most exposed lift that might be closed and smile: Having planned a ski tour anyway – fell under ski and walking up with pure fitness, ha, who needs lifts?!

    Supertouring-Ladies of the Day

    For about half an hour, half of the ski region opens up. Other guests checking out manage their way down just in time and the same is true for their luggage. New guests with scheduled arrival miss their chance – we will have the chalet all for ourselves tonight, but before that, there are hills to run up and blizzards to face.

    well…

    Meanwhile, the entire ski region is closed and we align with our host the best destination for our tour: Up on the alpine plateau, leaving the trees – slight tendencies to fall over – behind.

    In the beginning, it was a splendid Idea!

    Strangest sensation of the day is a rainbow to our right. It remains there for hours, stable as a rock and entirely un-impressed by the squalls.

    Ever seen a rainbow that lasts 3 hours?

    We make our way up and get a rough welcome by the hurricane’s strength when reaching the Längenfelder high plateau. From here, we could turn left and head for the Hochalm. Yet, encouraged by two other crazy guys, we decide to continue straight on to the top station of the chairlift.

    Natural Talent

    The storm is loud and forceful up here. Every now and then, some of us give secret glances to the signposts along the way, ready to dodge flying obstacles. The last yards towards our target occur simultaneous to one of the storm’s peaks. With 3,000 m altitude more, it would be a copy of the Mount Everest’s base camp at average weather.

    It looks like…
    but it feels like THIS!

    Next in our adventurous movie are fragments like: Hide in the few inches of lee behind a skilift’s mast. Strip off the fells, hold tight to every item and step on the skis, prevent them from being torn by powerful squalls. Seek stable stand on the skis and stop thinking of scenes with people being pushed by the wind over a mountain’s edge.

    Piece of Cake, isn’t it?!

    The rest of the day contains sunny minutes on a bench, relaxed homecoming to our chalet, delicacies and wine. And updated plans for our future: Candidate A claims to be out of Himalaya or South Pole field trips. Candidate B promises to look for more comfortable ski tours. However, both are happy and satisfied with another great outdoor day during our wonderful holiday week.

  • EXPECT NOTHING IN PARTICULAR, BUT THE BEST IN GENERAL.

    That is my preferred approach to life, and it rewards me with beauty and snow and all the rest.

    Alpspitze, Zugspitze, Längenfelder – and kitschy pink in high volume

    Together with my sister, we spend a full week skiing the Alps. Between Hausberg and Kreuzeck, we are located in our preferred place in Garmisch Classic ski area. The hardest choice: find the most charming panorama – when in every direction, out of every window, the surrounding is fantastic.

    Outlook

    Timing is excellent with solid conditions on our preferred hills. It takes two days for measuring every inch of the Kandahar weltcup slope, 100% steep and challenging and perhaps the most wonderful way to work on your leg muscles.

    Me and my Slope
    Preferred way of Skiing

    Evenings are lazy apart from tough brain exercise: scrabble-battles of the peaceful, yet master-level-kind. On Tuesday evening, the tables are full of ski touring folks, while on other evenings it is just the fireplace, the scrabble board and the two of us.

    Evening Setting

    At 8:30 each morning, the slopes are all ours. Having the pole position for the start into the day is so cool – no matter if we leave the first trace of the day in the Kandahar slope or if we enjoy untouched powder from last night’s snowfall on the No. 2 of our favourite slopes, the Horn-Abfahrt.

    This is what we call perfect Weather Conditions

    Days end with a toast to the Alps and pink skies, immersing the Kreuzeck funicular station in the most romantic light. It all looks peaceful, until… (tbc)

    – Part 2 will follow soon –