Hector ist der Größte! und andere Reisen…
…<<When?>> asks Hector.
<<…and where?>>
West will be the most certain, general direction. South, perhaps. Trying to be as flexible as the limitaions and rules on behalf of Voldemort (= topic that should not be named). My ukulele, my Hector and some books will be fine for a start, surf waves are preferred along the way and sun will be very welcome.
Guess, we have a plan!
Zwiesel may come in different forms. Red wine glasses, white wine glasses and a mountain in the South of Bad Tölz, Bavaria.
Being a smart person means to chose the easiest of all ski tours from Rother Skitourenführer Bayerische Alpen. After 15 tours on slopes of all kind, I move on into the wild and, smart as hell, go for the Zwieselberg.
Being adventurous brings in some spice. Especially when following obvious ski traces and realizing too late that they lead into the wrong direction (option A, remediated by a 10 minutes uphill intermezzo) or into a steep hiking path in the forest (option B). Due to my book, there must be a third option, but that one did not cross my path.
On my way up, everything is fine for the time being: Unpredicted sun shines on corn snow, few other hikers or ski tourers are around and the storm has not yet reached it’s full strength.
When I reach the cross of Zwieselberg, a half dozen of hikers lingers around the peak and reacts slightly irritated when seeing my skis. The few (4, in total) other ski tourers that passed my by (full-speed) in the lower areas are long gone now, and rather sooner than later I will wonder where they managed their descent.
Now, being all back and safe, I can confirm that I have special skills in getting stuck between two conifer trees. And I am for sure one of very, very rare persons who succeeded the trial path on the way down. Then, after what felt like 200m altitude difference on steep terrain with tight trees, I sincerely regret not having taken a picture of the steel staircase. Like the cherry on the cake, just when the trial path hits the creek, a staircase with icy steps marks an ultimate end to my skiing abilities. Where are the paparazzi when the situation would lure into a perfect snapshot of unperfect mountain sports?
Further down, I meet two hikers with stunned looks when noticing my skis and the direction I come from. Due to them, I must have been the first crazy freak who tried the toughest way down. However, later today, I have found out that there even is a recommendation by “planet outdoor” for this route, mentioning nonchalant “carry the skis over the metal stairs”.
Taking all possibilities into consideration, I am not convinced of Zwieselberg being a ski tour-paradise. The joyful passages on snowy meadows make a mere 10% of the entire descent, at least from a timing perspective.
Still, I am happy about my Sunday adventure and will certainly try out further ski tours into the wild “Voralpen”!
| 620m altit. difference | some km | 4h (up: 2h) | challenging |
Merry Christmas, happy holidays and a relaxed & wonderful start into 2022! And remember:
Above all, life is full of chances.
December… Approaching Christmas and Lockdown threats, skies are grey and the mood… is splendid once we reach Spitzingsee, where rain turns into snow.
First ski-tour this winter for me, first ski-tour ever for the wise sister. Just great to be out here, surrounded by other crazy outdoor freaks and happy with fresh snow beneath our skis!
Facts of the tour: internet data results into 365 m altitude difference. But why trust anonymous internet sites when you can ask foreign guys at the Jagahüttn? “…must be around 1.600-1.700 m, black and challenging tour, great achievement!”
The first winter hike of the year always comes as a surprise. This November weekend 2021 offers autumn sun and almost perfect conditions – if not for the out-of-the-blue white stuff all around Spitzingsee.
Of course, I arrive at Spitzingsattel in light hiking shoes and summer clothing. What else to expect on a bright, sunny day?! Yet, my summer shoes work pleasingly well on icy ground, making me start the tour light-hearted. And without realizing the wrong direction I take right from the parking lot.
The forest path of the first passage is well marked and supposed to be my retour. Still, it brings me closer to my desired destination, the Jägerkamp-peak. It’s cross becomes visible as soon as I leave the forest behind and approach the Schönfeldhütte. There even is a sign towards a vague direction “Jägerkamp: 1h”. Half an hour later, after some back and forth trials, I realize: a) that I have reached a point only 5 minutes away from the Alm. And, b), that landmarks or painted dots (signposts) are buried under 30 cm of finest fresh snow.
I look around and spot a handful other hikers. Each one seems to face the same dilemma: looking for the right way towards the summit, losing time over time in the snow.
Eventually, it is the temptation of food and coffee offered by Schönfeldhütte (open in all seasons) that makes me abbreviate today’s hike. I make a mental note for the Jägerkamp becoming an upcoming target, then hop down to the Alm.
I share a table in the sun with a gentle guy from Slovakia and he shares his knowledge about the right way to the Jägerkamp (turns out that I have been wrong all along). For the time being, I have no regrets: 2,5 hours in beautiful surrounding, with rays of sun and sparkling white snow – peak or no peak, I have a wonderful time with probably the last hike of the year.
Another hike with another friend. Who would have guessed (not me, certainly) that I would manage to meet sports buddies rather than bar / culture / other friends? Especially when being back in the “Super-Working-Trap”: Eleven months mark an overwhelming lean period between the last holiday and the next, even worse as travelling has lost some of its lightness for an undefined period of time.
Typical for October, temperatures vary from frozen to t-shirt-warmth, depending upon sun and southern vs. northern flanks. The length of today’s tour, instead, depends upon orientation and rare road signs. We manage to sort out the first half just right, or at least most of it. Forest roads, paths and rare outlooks keep us busy and uphill for a bit less than two hours, until we almost stumble out of the woods and over the peak’s cross. Far from being the most impressive peak of the Alps, the Staffel’s cross is almost hilariously huge.
The way down starts promising and mostly sunny. About half way down, an unmarked crossing lurs us into a deviation of a mere 5 km before we get back to our starting point. Hence, we get a bit more sun and walking distance than foreseen by the easy tour, summing up 14 instead of the planned 9 km. Still, it has been a nice and easy hike and before we leave the Jachenau valley, we ensure to fill up precious calories in the cafés along the way.
| 800m altit. difference | 14 km | 4:20 h | harmless |
The wrong turn right at the start leads to a tour that is not entirely, but almost, unlike the planned one. But, lucky girl that I am, the unexpected variance of a hike is a win: all sunny and with fantastic views between Wildem Kaiser and Zahmen Kaiser.
For maximum training effects, I carry all the via ferrata stuff along the way: snaphooks, helmet and all other safety equipment. It weighs about umpteen pounds or a ton or close to. Aiming to lighten my backpack, I have left the hiking sticks down at the parking, something that seemed a good idea about an hour ago. With the steep paths up and the stony paths down, they would have been quite useful along the way, but with the given facts, I still have the option to ignore aching knees or tired muscles.
The only complaint – if any – is about the Stripsenjochhaus. Somewhere between Feldberg and Wiesensattel, I start dreaming of Austrian food. I even visualize how I will stretch out my legs with a cup of coffee and glutenfree cake. Truth is that the crew of Stripsenjochhaus has decided to close down early this year, and there is no such thing as a cook awaiting hungry guests.
After all, flexibility is a matter of planning. Having parked Hector at Griesner Alm (closed as well, of course), means that it only takes 20 minutes to Camping Steinplatte with it’s approved qualities: friendly service, hot showers and a solid restaurant.
Later that evening I resume that Covid19 has changed my habits: The money I have spent previously for bars, clubs, concerts and theater now flows into sporty activities and camping. Either way, there is more to life than just work or lockdown.
| 950m altit. difference | 9 km | 4:15 h | mostly harmless |
…then one Friday afternoon…
Another weekend brings sun and warmth, at least during daytime. No wonder that Hector talks me into another trip towards the Alps, this time even abroad. We detect Camping Steinplatte, a likely campsite with premium lavatories and relaxed atmosphere.
Caused by maximum spontaneity, I have left a couple of things behind. Such as the hiking map of the region, and also Fred, my expedition sleeping bag (rescue from the cold down to -42°C). Fortunately, the cold is a mild one this night and the two summer blankets are enough to keep it cozy and warm.
Saturday morning starts promising. Turning on Hector’s heating enables me to get used to the expected summer temperatures. Besides, it feels incredibly luxury. I am well aware that others might starve in the cold while I enjoy comfy breakfast with homemade coffee and a humming gas heating.
The rest of the day is fun and joy and mountains: Hector takes the toll road under his tires, all up to Steinplatte-parking. Along the way, he proves once more that he is a veritable Rennsau (formula 1-like-moving-item). At 9:05 a.m., I start my walk towards Stallenalm, then Grünwaldalm and then finally to the beginning of the via ferrata Schuastagangl-Steig.
After the easy-peasy hikes and via ferrata trials of the past, today’s route is a good one. Interesting, even. And despite few others being either ahead of me or behind, I do neither hear nor see anyone during the entire steel rope section. I have the entire challenge all for myself.
Given the solitude as well as my general, very rational mindset, I leave out the detour marked with “difficult, really difficult” and rather continue straight forward on the original route.
Once having stepped into the via ferrata, it becomes as simple and pure as can be: just follow the steel ropes, mostly in a vertical direction. The view gets more and more spectacular while I forget entirely to think about work, to-do-lists or other duties. The klicks of the snap-hooks and the search for good grip in the rocky wall, that is all that counts here and now.
Hardly an hour later, I come to a point where I try and try and re-try for what seems endless (about 5 minutes), sorting out how to get over a tricky passage. Pausing and thinking about the best approach makes me realize that I am really hungry by now. I hope that the peak is not far anymore, and lose focus with a couple of braincells that start dreaming of a well-prepared summit-snack…
Seven minutes later, I am there. All it takes is a bit of body tension: A step to the right, a slight swing to the left, then a pull from the arms and a push from the left toes and there I am, up on the Steinplatte.
The scattered hikers around ask me why I radiate with exuberant happiness. Seems like my joy is visible, including the sun, the view, the tour and the challenge. Or, more probable, the sensation of finally getting my peak snack.
Walking down is the relaxed part, even hilarious. Not because of the moaning children or oversized parents carried up by the cableway. Not even because of the asphalted ways and the obtrusive visibility of ski lifts and snow cannons. It is due to the “Triassic Park” and it’s papier mâché objects – and due to the fact that they pretend to talk to their audience.
Eventually, I make it down to the Stallenalm for a final cup of coffee before I head back home. The tour kept me busy and focused for less than three hours, yet the holiday feeling of the weekend will stay for a little while.
| 510m altit. diff. | few km | 2:45 h | via ferrata: mostly harmless |
Lately I’ve been wishing for an unknown pleasure…
…simple as the movement of a van coming by.
Delicate as wine and stars…
…and pure as a mountain lake.
How about you?
How about you?!
But as for the hour, feels like I’m reaching for the peak of sours… They say, holidays will come and go, and when it hits you, you know it happened. Something inexplicable and undiscovered, something in the shades that I can take into the light… And something kind of silly I can find a meaning in and wake up to at night – some pretty sight.
[Inspired by Stray Colors / Whiskey Sour and with fantastic view on the Brecherspitz]
We count the 15th year of alumni encounters, the big revival of the best controlling team ever. This time, we come together on top of the Pfänder.
The tough ones go up and enjoy the physical challenge. The rest will join later, wasting not a single drop of sweat when using the cable car.
The simple path leads up through shady forest with wonderful views over the Bodensee every now and then. After all, we reach the Pfänder peak after 1:15h, all easy and stressless.
Waiting for the rest of the team is the hard part. We linger around the peak’s cross as long as we can, then settle down on the terrace and start to celebrate our yearly reunion.
Eventually, the other colleagues make it, and we can start discussing professional topics. Strange enough, whenever I bring up the question of the partial reflexion of photons on H2O molecules, no vivid exchange enfolds…
With the squeeze of delayed arrival and the upcoming evening agenda, we take a final picture and start our descent in time.
The main part of our meeting takes place at Ravensburg – a cute, still a bit boring city, about half an hour from the lake’s shore. Lucky us, the restaurant scene has added Syrlin Speisenwelt with the wonderful Kostbar just recently. Food and wine are excellent and the mood is as good as ever. Five thirty-somethings share professional and personal interest as well as a certain sense for enjoyment. If only they had a Glitzerkeller or Stereobar in Ravensburg, that would bring us back to early years…
In the end, we are safe and – relatively – early back at the hotel. The good thing of a closed-down downtown and an obstructive barkeeper is the reasonable, low level of alcohol (a big “Thank you!” goes to Kai, the non-profit guy from the Aurum-Bar).
| ca. 600m altit. diff. | 7 km | ca. 2h | harmless |
