During the travel day the landscape has changed significantly. The skerries with granite rocks are rougher compared to the south and the sea is not yet, but almost fjord-like and requires monumental bridges.
I have read a lot about Fjällbacka, including dead bodies, dangerous family affairs and brave Swedish cops that fight for the good. No wonder that they offer guided tours based on the murder mysteries by Camilla Läckberg, all located here in Fjällbacka. With a bit of disappointment I look around but these days it is all peaceful and the highest crimes are badly dressed tourists.
The city is not spectacular, but it has a rough charm with the red stilt houses at the harbour, the rocks and the skerry islands.
I am fascinated by the view from the cliff “Vetteberget”and the mixed up weather increases the dramatic atmosphere among the skerry archipels.
The town is small enough to offer some items in a unique, island position way: the church, the camp site and the WiFi zone. The latter is available in the lobby of Hotel Brygga, furnished like a gentleman’s club from previous century.
Even better is fish + wine at the “Åckes” bar, only topped by the overwhelming “Kanelbullar” of the local bakery (close to the harbour). Wherever you turn to, the sea is always in reach and comes along with umpteen harbours or landing places, surrounded by shimmering blue water.
Lazy days pass by with a walk to the ravine that had been used for the movie “Ronja Räubertochter”. Usually I am almost magic on how to get obstacles out of the way, but this time I drop it as I do not want to pulverize the tourist potential of this nice little town.
The high season is already gone, but each weekend all wealthy Gothenburg people arrive at their summer resort or their resident trailor at the Fjällbacka Camping. The camping here is a funny thing: at least three signs along the road indicate that all places are full, but when you arrive and ask, you will be offered a pitch on the large meadow among tents and all kinds of travellers. It is like Munich restaurants that put “reserved” tags on all tables, even though not a single customer has asked for a table yet.
Personal recommendation: stay relaxed and look out for calm spots – in August you will surely find them.