• C1a
    Hector’s Swimming Class

    Six hours on the ocean and Hector proudly announces that he knows how to swim open waters. I see the need for some discussions coming up, but for today I drop it and rather look for our first Swedish home base.

    D1

    I choose Simrishamn with a sea side camping. Catching the pitch closest to the beach (with grass, low pines and a mini golf course in between), Hector is probably the most South-Eastern point of entire Sweden these days.

    E7

    The first hours seem to confirm pessimistic Scandinavian insect predictions: thousands and millions of tiny bugs fly around, covering 1/3 of my shirt, falling in my neckline and in my drinks and they ANNOY ME!!

    E2
    Simrishamn (center)

    After a quick impression of Simrishamn down-town, I learn two things:
    a) Sirimshamn is quiet. Very quiet. Boring might be even more true.
    b) The black mini bugs do not like the beach (and the sand flies are less obtrusive).

    E4
    Simrishamn Beach

    The next day is fine for bug-free jogging, as long as you are done by 8:00am that is. Afterwards, I am queen of the beach, having it – in spite of the well-populated camp site – all on my own for hours.

    E6
    Starring at the Sea

    After the sports-beach-relaxation day at Simrishamn, Hector is keen on seeing more of the country. We head off to Ronneby and easily find parking slots at the Brunnsparken. It is described as “the most beatiful of parks” and offers a tourist train, cafés and beds of roses as well as pure nature with endless forest, lakes and hilly grounds.

    The area is huge and I am glad that today is not Sunday: due to a short & successful stop at a small antique shop along the way, my vacation fund would not take further shopping excesses at the flea market that occurs weekly in the pillared meeting place of Brunshallarna.

    F1a
    Brunshallarna

    In the afternoon we arrive at Eringsboda and Hector settles down in front of my uncle’s holiday house.

    G1

    Accompanied by my cousin we use the fantastic weather for a swim in one of the lakes close by. The water temperature had been measured with 19°C while the more you jump in the warmer it feels.

    G3

    I spend two nights in my uncle’s garden with seasoned prunes falling directly from the tree into my muesli and with touristic impressions that are above all: relaxing.

    G6
    Eringsboda
    H1d
    Björkenäs
    H2
    Torhamn
    H5
    Sandhamn
    H7
    Starring at the Sea (continued)
    G9
    Family Residence
  • It is Saturday evening when Hector is finally over-equipped and ready to go North. The batteries are fully charged, the water tank is filled with 40 l of best Munich water and the refrigerator with prepared food, summer beer and whatever it takes to survive in the wilderness.

    A1

    Around nightfall we reach the Parkschloss in the South of Leipzig: although filled with campers and regular cars, the friendly groundkeeper offers me a nice spot at the edge. With no service (no toilets, no showers, no electricity nor water) Hector is the star of the day, offering all luxury I could ask for.

    A1a
    Parkschloss Leipzig, Agra Park Dölitz

    Mornings start best with fresh coffee, but my gas cooker in the kitchen remains silent. No typical sound from running gas, no flame, no spark, just: silence. When I turn round, I see the fridge’s light blink. On, off, on, off, on, off… Obviously, my refrigerator’s gas consumption does not meet my expectations – the 1st gas bottle is empty after 2x heating (Dolomites) + 3x cooling. With three weeks yet to come Hector and I agree on gas-cooling only in case of emergency, for instance when the volume of white whine exceeds the maximum of daily consumption.

    Being the most flexible camper girl, I prepare coffee on the outdoor cooker before jogging through the agra Park of Dölitz. Good that I have had my portion of daily movement, keeping me at ease through the upcoming traffic jams. Note to myself: Remember to travel German highways between 18:00 and 7:00 only.

    A2

    The afternoon welcomes me with blue sky at Warnemünde and Hector finds a nice pitch in front of a super mega incredible cruise ship.

    B1
    Hector looks tiny and slim, depending on the surrounding

    Facilities are repeating yesterday’s theme: nothing. It only takes 20 seconds to relocate the folded bicycle beside the couch and free my way into my private bath room. As long as you call 45 square centimetres a room…

    B2
    Evening at Warnemünde

    I stroll around the harbour, the restaurants and thousands of tourists before I finally reach the beach. The plan is to toe-test the water temperature and then go for some coffee and prepare the following travel day. The facts are different and they are called Christian and Nico.

    B3a
    Hi guys

    Shyly I ask them to take a picture and five minutes later I have a beer in my hand and we share decent conversations about the measurement of the world. Later, the sea is irresistible – who needs a shower when you can jump into the ocean? The water is wonderful and with the beach being half empty, no one cares about missing bathing suits or social conventions.

    B4

    Around the third beer, the idea of spontaneous travelling brings up the suggestion of extended travel groups (Hector, me + 1 further), just for the fun of it. Although I am not aware of it by now, I will smile the next day when I find out that the ticket-traveller-controls at the ferry are hilarious: nobody would have noticed additional persons hidden in the bathroom. Let’s think it through: a tall man hiding inside Hectors tiny bathroom, sharing the few cubic centimetres with the bicycle… in fact, the risk of hidden passengers is limited to Houdini.

    Back home, Hector and I watch the cruisers coast into the ocean, wondering why anyone might need a 4-spiral-toboggan on top of a ship. After a short night, our day starts at 5:15 with bright sun, calm sea and the ferry to Sweden (without toboggan).

    C1
    The next morning…

    As soon as Hector has Swedish ground under his tires, we learn more about our equipment: my tomtom Navi does not contain Swedish maps. If not for beer and swimming and dinner invitation, I would have checked out some destinations just the other day, but as things have developed in their own (best) way, I am fine with improvisation. The offline-on-paper-maps I had bought in March offer reliable information and I find today’s campsite without difficulties.

    C4
    Leaving Rostock/Warnemünde. Hector pushed all others out of the way for free view

    For today, I am done with travelling – tired, happy and perfect dinner to local mosquitoes.

     

  • Riffelspitz

    At 6:45 sharp I turn the engine and Hector turns right. The toughest tour so far starts with washed air and the Alps reaching out to Hector and the hikers inside.

    2017_07_29a

    In Hammersbach we hop on the cog railway and jump off at the upon-demand-stopp Riffelriss. The train disappears inside the tunnel to the Zugspitzplatt and we are left behind, starring at the closed tunnel portal. In the opposite direction we look down at the Eibsee –  a view that will continue all the way up to the southern peak of the Riffelspitze.

    Zugspitzblick
    right below the Zugspitze

    After a nice and easy start on small paths through pines and larchs, we reach open terrain and loose rubble. With my professional super trekking shoes and carbon sticks, I am fine with the rough materials – even more as the scratches from closer-than-planned contact with the surrounding heal wonderfully. Lucky us that my hiking buddy of the day is in best condition, coping easily with the 1-step-up-3/4-steps-down rhythm. Later on our way up, steel cables enable a better grip and may be the evidence for even steeper trails.

    WayUp

    The encounter of two shirtless hiking boys (exercise more, but thanks already) marks another change of landscape: no path, but rock face and a constant steel rope invite us up to the Riffelscharte. Up there we find ourselves on a high plateau and continue over the the ridge towards the Riffelspitze. The side that looks down to the Eibsee is a straight wall of a cliff and helps you to find out about being free from giddiness (or not).

    Grat
    Gratwanderung

    The last 50 meters up to the peak have neither path nor trail and it is fun to find out where to place your hand first before lifting one foot to further positions. It is more climbing than walking and all worth it.

    IMG_8098
    no worries – the real climbing has been mostly harmlesss

    Someone has built a simple cross at the peak and we have the small spot all for the two of us. The view (once more) is fantastic: around 1.100 m below us is the Eibsee with its typical islands and green-blue water. At the left is the Zugspitz-Massif and looks impressive over the short distance. Turning round, we find the Höllentalangerhütte (850m down).

    eibsee2
    Eibsee
    2017_07_29d
    Zugspitze
    Hoellentalhuette
    Höllentalangerhütte

    Reaching the Höllentalangerhütte is just a question of time, but a serious one. Steep paths, pebbles and rubble, some parts supported by steel ropes and all of it reminds us that 1.500m altitude difference are more than a relaxed promenade. When reaching the alp, I am happy that it has become rare that my feet hurt with every step I take. The way from the peak has been longer than expected, but this is nothing that coffee, a 60-minutes-break and some food could not fix.

    Waxenstein
    Passing by the Waxenstein

    From the alp down to Hammersbach leads the way through the sensational Höllental-Klamm. I am grateful that I had seen it last year early in the morning, having the aggressive beauty of the roaring water all for ourselves. Today, we have to share the views and the paths with masses of tourists and prefer time over quality.

    Klamm1
    back in the Höllentalklamm

    A snapshot here, a quick photo there and within minutes we leave the gorge behind and hop down the forest road to Hammersbach. Hector is happy to have the crew back on board: the evening is fine for some van-care, rinsing some cleaning elixir through the water system.

    The next morning comes up with severe muscle soreness and a sparkling, ready-to-roll Hector. Regretful, I store all hiking accessories in my closet. I wonder what I will do in Sweden next week, missing the hills and the hiking routine. Well, time will tell…

    680m up + 1550m down12,5 km<6hchallenging
  • “I want to be the star of the show! And I want it to be a big show!” See what happens when the last serious holidays are long gone and the van becomes impatient.

    Loungesofa
    The couch is ready to roll

    Yes, we have been to the dolomites. Yes, there have been hiking short trips to the Alps. But a real tour, let me think, the last one ended in June 2016 after surfing France’s west coast. By now, we are desperately counting down the remaining days until we head off to Sweden. The house sitters are organized (great to have home-seeking friends), we bought a travel book and a map for south Sweden and the ferries are booked since March. Now it is time to pack and leave.

    HectorEmpty
    Hector, empty

    Due to a lack of time the preparation so far has been limited to the facts above. Now I start thinking about: What will I do there? Where will I go? I have a vague idea of “beautiful nature” and thousands of blue shimmering lakes. Oh, and I ordered a mosquito net the other day, just in case… Hector, sure enough, does not care too much about details. He is more the “tiger in the tank” type and takes off without clear destination basically following the sun. Thus, I will let loose and see later about the where and the how and the holiday action.

    HectorPacked
    Hector, packed

    The packing includes long & short + warm & cold clothing, the skateboard, jogging shoes and two and a half bikinis. Fresh water, pasta, potatoes and a pound of coffee will follow right before leaving. I think this will do for most spontaneous ideas that might come up…

     

  • Topping the foundation established by recent hiking weekends, today’s tour with 13,5 km + 960m altitude difference is supposed to be black = difficult. Except for the unforeseen challenge in finding the right turn at the right time it has been comparable to the mid-level tours we had just the other weeks. Anyway, I am sure that the route description could be followed easily as long as you hand over the itinerary to someone being less blonde before you leave the alp “Obere Firstalm”.

    2_Bodenschneid_A

    Those who consider exact reading being too time-consuming may forget about the sidestep to the Bodenschneid alp and head directly to the Bodenschneid peak with its large cross and the wide view from the Brecherspitz to the Tegernsee. The cliff at the edge is the perfect location for a second breakfast and for resorting the planned route.

    1_Bodenschneid_A
    View from Bodenschneid to the Tegernsee

    We continue our way by crossing a steep meadow before we find back the correct path to the Rinnerspitz and thus the second peak of today’s tour. It is only the path to the 3rd peak Wasserspitz that is somehow hidden underneath the trees and the grass.

    2_Bodenschneid_B
    Whoever finds out about the heart with the knife: tell me about it

    We accept today being a lazy one with only 750m altitude difference over all. Lucky us that we reached the highest of the planned peaks and enjoyed the shortened tour like a relaxed walk in the park. Finally it is one of the base lines of the ancient philosopher Meatloaf: Two Out of Three Ain’t Bad!

  • I should have known that: Hiking with Barbara means => Barbara + further company. Been there, done that but still I am stunned by the impact.

    1Hennenkopf
    1.768m or: perfect pictures are best when accompanied by a personal photographer

    The two of us start at the fairy tale castle Linderhof, all in the spirit of Ludwig II and his longing for calm and beauty. Ten minutes later we remark a third shadow following us: Michael had been heading for the Pürschling peak but instantly skips his plans and is willing to join our trekking day.

    2Hennenkopf
    Hau ruck – today’s route shows manifold facets

    Our tour follows kilometers of small trails, all up and up and steep and sometimes cliffy. Thanks to the recently painted marks along the route, we find our way up to the Hennenkopf without difficulties. Apart from our follower, we see chamois, copulating amphibians and giant snails, but no further hikers until we reach the top. Even on a sunny high season weekend, this part of the Ammergauer Alpen is less frequented than the popular peaks around.

    5Hennenkopf
    Ammergauer Alpen

    After soaking in the 360° view, we start losing height and continue our loop road to the Brunnenkopfhäuser. Tons of food and cake later, we change the steep trails for rough forest roads and head down to the castle. The entire tour with 1.040 m altitude difference took us 6 hours and probably more calories than we were able to refill at the Brunnenkopfhütte. Conclusion: worth it!

    3bHennenkopf
    Linderhof at our feet

    P.S.: Proud to announce the 1st tour of the year free of pain – except for the horsefly bites…

  • Some people know how to make most of a festival evening, some are pretty good at finding beautiful hiking tours. R. knows both, being well qualified for Saturday’s companion.

    3Spitzstein
    View from the Spitzstein to the Kaisergebirge

    The 5th peak 2017 is the Spitzstein, located somewhere between the Chiemsee and Kufstein. With 870m difference in altitude it proves once more the strong correlation between steep trails and the need for plasters.

    1Spitzstein
    Spitzstein Peak: 1.596m

    Once on top, the view is fantastic and reaches from the Kampenwand to Tyrol’s higher mountains and from the Chiemsee to the Inntal. With one foot in Bavaria and one in Tyrol, we are able to be at 2 locations simultaneously, approaching the Heisenberg uncertainty principle. Isn’t it great how shaped physiques meet applied physics?!

    2Spitzstein
    Somewhere between Austria and Germany

  • Here comes the next peak! At least, that was the plan. 1st plan had been the Blaueisgletscher, but we had to skip that due to constant rain from Saturday evening to Sunday afternoon in Berchtesgadener Land. 2nd plan was the Rubihorn in Oberstdorf: positive weather forecast, 1957 meters, nice camp site (rubi camp).

    Hector2
    Shiny happy Hector, now with all make up (stickers) removed

    Arriving Saturday evening, we prepared everything for an early-bird start of the Sunday mountain tour. Around 5:10 am, an unforeseen monster rain cloud made its way from the South over the Alps and arrived just in time to laugh at us and our silly plans.

    Regen1
    Being directly below the unforeseen monster rain cloud

    Lucky us that with Hector’s instinct for the sun + competent research performed by the passenger’s seat, we had a nice hiking tour at last (thanks R.!). With about 300 meters of altitude difference, it only came close to our planned effort, but guess what: we made it up to the peak! To the Auerberg peak and its “closed due to renovation” church on the mountain top and with a wonderful view on the alps (if not for the low clouds in between).

    Auerberg2
    Peaks are a bit different in the Allgäu

    In total, we had sun, we were hiking and I worked on the perfect harmony of feet + trekking shoes – what else can you expect from a cloudy weekend?!

  • Good news: Friends M. + C. and their blue Ford Nugget are down in Bavaria for a camping weekend.

    Bad news: Hector is too chubby for the places located directly at the shoreline of Camping Lido. Consequently, my van with a view is limited to the backside of the sanitary house and camping neighbours around.

    Bild1aa
    Camping Lido / Schliersee (Hector included)

    Well, who needs a luxury home when you can spend time at your friends’ place? MC Nugget has a private grassy beach of approximately one square meter and a bottle of sparkling wine in the fridge. With the sun hanging high above the foothills of the Alps and ourselves being pretty good camper nixies, we are at ease with camping, life and everything.

    Nixe1

    After a summer-in-the-lake afternoon we get a bit disappointed by Sunday’s rain. However, with little correction in today’s agenda we use the wet summer day for the Markus Wasmeier Freilichtmuseum. Even though our slim knowledge of historical farm houses could be fed with some further explanations, we enjoy lingering around. At least we do learn some important facts: They really know how to make good “Auszogne” (building No. 23 / Behamhof) and my new hiking shoes are 100% water resistant.

    Bild2a
    Lovely old buildings at Markus Wasmeier Freilichtmuseum

    Later that day we get surprised by the camp site’s restaurant. Whatever they call it here (mostly “Gastro”), we call it pretty good food! This has nothing to do with the leak snacks they serve at other campings and is even better than the typical Bavarian plates we had at the “Terofal” restaurant just the other day.

    Bild3a
    View from the camp site into Bavaria

    Having spent two nights at Camping Lido for 43,- EUR, Hector has become familiar with the landscape, the farming and the local highlights. It is only after a final cuddle with local cows that he is willing to leave the Schliersee behind.

    Bild4b
    Making friends

    P.S.: Die Preise am Camping Lido sind nicht das erwartete Schnäppchen, aber der Platz ist nett geführt und bietet (mit Bulli, Glück oder Nebensaison) tolle Stellplätze direkt am See. Fakten: Ortszentrum in Laufweite, Sanitär ok und die Landschaft über jeden Zweifel erhaben.

    P.P.S.: Die Frankfurter Allgemeine Sonntagszeitung veröffentlichte Ende Mai 2017 ein Special über Camping und erwähnte dabei u.a. den Caravanpark Sexten: „Dort kann man […] sich im Spa eine Silberquarzit-Urinsteinmassage verpassen lassen.“ Aaaarggh…! Nochmal gelesen: es ist von einer Silberquarzit-Ursteinmassage die Rede. Uff. Soviel Wellness bietet der Schliersee-Campingplatz nicht, aber das war auch nicht der Anspruch.

     

  • Here we go with the next round in 2018 preparation: Friend R. (when working together, I secretly called her “The Brain” but never told her about it), 25 °C and a cloudless sunny sky come together in perfect conditions for a neat little hiking tour. Even more important is the shoe topic. Brand new hiking shoes lust for serious usage in all possible directions: up, down, across and left/right.

    Seeberg1

    The way up is supposed to be harmless, but my shoes have not heard of that. The conclusion by the end of the day will be that the hiking is fine but the socks could do better, while half way up I start dreaming of the plasters in my backpack. However, the diversified path, the view on Rotwand and other peaks and the blooming flowers along the way keep my mind distracted and my feet at ease.

    Seeberg2
    3rd peak 2017: Seebergkopf

    The Seepergkopf is located right in front of the Wendelstein with its striking (some say: ugly) buildings. As we stand on the veritable peak, our eyes wander a bit to the right and we see snow-white mountains in the Austrian alps and a lot of nature all around. Plus Bayrischzell at our feet.

    On the way down, we stop for a drink at the Neualm which is a bit noisy with all the happy cows and their bells. Some of them approach us, looking for tender caresses, but due to their size I prefer some centimeters of distance between them and me. I rather go for a chat with the funny Irishman that sits in the middle of the cow flock like an Englishman in New York.

    Seeberg3

    After 5 hours up + down + 2 breaks we are back down with 750 meters of altitude that continue flowing through our legs and feet for some hours more.